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  Happiness is a Rare Bird

  Pileated Woodpecker

  Happiness is a Rare Bird

  Living the Birding Life

  by

  Gene Walz

  Happiness is a Rare Bird: Living the Birding Life

  copyright © Gene Walz 2016

  Turnstone Press

  Artspace Building

  206-100 Arthur Street

  Winnipeg, MB

  R3B 1H3 Canada

  www.TurnstonePress.com

  All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or ­transmitted in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic or ­mechanical—without the prior ­written permission of the ­publisher. Any request to photocopy any part of this book shall be directed in writing to Access Copyright, Toronto.

  Turnstone Press gratefully acknowledges the assistance of the Canada Council for the Arts, the Manitoba Arts Council, the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund, and the Province of Manitoba through the Book Publishing Tax Credit and the Book Publisher Marketing Assistance Program.

  Pileated Woodpecker image on page ii by Kathryn Manix Walz.

  Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

  Walz, Eugene P., author

  Happiness is a rare bird : living the birding life / by Gene Walz.

  Issued in print and electronic formats.

  ISBN 978-0-88801-583-9 (softcover).--ISBN 978-0-88801-585-3 (Kindle).

  --ISBN 978-0-88801-584-6 (EPUB).--ISBN 978-0-88801-586-0 (PDF)

  1. Walz, Eugene P. 2. Bird watchers--Canada--Biography.

  3. Bird watching. I. Title.

  QL31.W26A3 2016 598.092 C2016-907578-8

  C2016-907579-6

  To my grandsons Torsten and Theo

  I don’t need bluebirds; my happiness is you.

  To Buddy, long-time furry companion

  His daily dog walks allowed me to conceive

  and mull over many of these ideas.

  Contents

  Preface

  Even Common Birds Can Be Special

  House Sparrows: Basic, Economy-sized Birds

  Black-capped Chickadees: Cheerful, Little Fluffballs

  Mallards and Other Tippy Ducks

  Nuthatches and Woodpeckers: Birds with Sticky Feet

  A Great Blue Heron Returns Before Ice-out

  American White Pelicans: Ghost Riders in the Sky

  Eyeball to Eyeball with a Short-eared Owl

  Merlins and Other Bird Brains

  Corvids: The Smartest Birds in the World

  Kathy and the Pileated Woodpeckers

  What Is So Rare As

  Atlantic Puffins: Clowns of the Sea

  A Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch: Truculent Vagabond

  Mississippi Kites: Alien Visitors

  Northern Cardinal: Rare Bird, Alert

  Indigo Bunting or Lazuli: What the Heck Is It?

  A Greylag and Other Wild Goose Chases

  Burrowing Owls: A Trip to FortWhyte Alive

  Apapanes and Other Hawaiian Birds

  Andean Cock of the Rock: The Bird Gods Smile on Us

  Antpittas: The Bird Gods Spurn Us

  Forty-spotted Pardalotes: Rare Australian Endemic

  The Resplendent Quetzal: My Favourite Bird

  Hummingbirds: A Divine Pash

  Once in a Lifetime Birding Experiences

  Broad-winged Hawks: An Unexpected Spectacle

  Fast and Furious Falcons

  A Fall-out of Spring Warblers

  Eight Things I’ve Seen with My Own Two Eyes

  Bob Nero and the Great Grey Owl

  Churchill, Manitoba: A Birder’s Chilly Paradise

  The Big Spit: At a Birding Festival

  Vietnam North to South

  My Birding Bruises

  Looking for Potoos: A Deadly Encounter

  Scary Surprise on an Amazonian Birding Tower

  Big Jags and Bad Drivers

  Terrible Trees and Few Birds: A Christmas Story

  Things That Don’t Make Me Happy, People Who Do

  Common Grackles: Unloved and Unwanted

  Wrynecks and Other Jinx Birds

  What’s in a Name?

  The Passenger Pigeon Apocalypse

  Bird Feeder Freeloaders

  Bird-Guiding: Not as Tempting as It Seems

  Nerdy? No Way!

  The Old Man and the Lek

  Old Jack and the Crow with One Leg

  Bob Taylor: The Funniest Birder Ever

  Wooly Bears, Not Birds

  Preface

  For me, nothing can quite match the pleasure and satisfaction of finding a rare bird.

  Whether that bird is in a foreign land, or in a place it isn’t supposed to be, or it just doesn’t get seen very often because its numbers have been greatly reduced, the feeling can be overwhelming. It’s the birding equivalent of finding a truly exceptional relic—a dinosaur bone, an ancient gold coin, or a painting bought for two dollars and valued at twenty thousand. It’s worth the Antiques Roadshow’s most frequent response: “Wow!” It’s a delightful moment, a thrilling moment.

  You feel like the planets have somehow aligned in your favor, the birding gods have bestowed an unexpected gift on you—a fabulous bird, like something out of a fable.

  Finding a rare bird is exceptionally satisfying if you’re with other savvy birders, even if they’ve already seen your “lifer”—a bird you’re seeing for the first time. Handshakes or high-fives are exchanged. A celebratory beverage often follows. All’s right with the world.

  That’s what happened when a Rustic Bunting showed up in Creighton, Saskatchewan several years ago. Creighton is just across the border from Flin Flon, Manitoba, one of the most amusingly named towns in North America. (Look it up!) It’s about 800 kilometres (500 miles) from my home in Winnipeg, one way. 1,000 miles round trip. It was mid-winter. The roads were icy. Yet carloads of birders made the nine-hour—one way—drive on the off-chance that they would catch a glimpse of a small, non-descript bird. I was in one of those cars. We all admitted we were more than a little nuts.

  The Rustic Bunting shouldn’t be anywhere near Saskatchewan. It’s a Eurasian species that is an uncommon migrant to the Aleutian Islands in spring and rare there in the fall. Sometimes it’s an accidental visitor along the coastline of British Columbia. Its inland appearance, in northern Saskatchewan of all places, was a significant birding event.

  We started off in the utter darkness at 5:00 am. We couldn’t see anything, but then again, going through the barren Interlake and the boreal forest, there wasn’t much to see at the best of times. In nervous anticipation, we shared stories in the darkened car of the rare birds that we were lucky enough to have seen. Then we switched to the whiffs—the trips we’d made in search of a rarity when we’d come up empty. I once made four trips to Portage la Prairie trying to spot a Scissor–tailed Flycatcher, an elegant grey and white bird with salmon-coloured flanks and an absurdly long, forked tail; it had somehow wandered from its normal range in Texas and Oklahoma. To find that flycatcher, I travelled 150 miles each trip. No luck. Emotional mayhem: self-doubt, frustration, rising amounts of anger and disappointment.

  With the bunting, things were different. We got to Creighton and spotted the bunting almost immediately. Whew! Relief and elation. Our long trip was not in vain. The little bird was coming to a feeder with a handful of sparrows and Juncos. The couple that owned the house and supplied seeds for the feeder invited us inside to warm up; they poured us celebrity cups of tea (not our u
sual lifer libation). We stayed for maybe twenty minutes and then hopped in the car and drove all the way back to Winnipeg. Crazy! My daughters had a term for us: “Daffy Birdwatchers.”

  What made the trip even more memorable, however, was not just the bunting or the tea-time hospitality of the feeder owners. On our trip we all got our first close-up view of a herd of woodland caribou, the so-called ghosts of the forest. They were shorter than any of us had imagined. We also saw a lynx, bigger than we thought and capable of leaping more than its height to pounce on something (a vole?) under the snow. And we were able to count a goshawk, not exactly rare but very difficult to find, and all three “chickens”: Ruffed, Sharp-tailed and Spruce Grouse, a feat rarely accomplished in one day. Giddy with the successes of the day, I decided that we should report the three Grouse as “Grice!” It’s the unanticipated things like these that can happen on a bird trip and make it especially pleasurable and rewarding.

  So, while finding a rare bird is usually a peak experience for a birder, it’s not the only pleasure that birding provides. People often ask me, sometimes rudely, what do you get out of birding? Or they’ll ask me why I’m a birder—as if it’s unmanly or uncool. Or what specifically makes birding enjoyable? This book is a series of indirect answers to those questions. I hope non-birders will get a glimpse of what makes birders tick. Wannabe birders will get an idea of what they can expect. Birders will recognize and enjoy experiences and habits they can surely relate to.

  Although happiness is in the title, this is not a self-help book—at least not directly. If you flip through it (go ahead!), you won’t find any graphs, ten-point action plans, or goopy-eyed cartoon waifs providing slick formulas for boosting you out of whatever “slough of despond” you’re stuck in. Birding has provided me with many happy occasions throughout my life, but I’m not presumptuous enough to set out guidelines for achieving happiness in life through birding.

  Nor is this book a bird guide or an instructional manual. So there are no photos or drawings of birds (save one by my late wife) and no recommendations for how to improve your bird-spotting identification skills. I’m no ornithologist, professional photographer, or world-recognized birder. I’m a writer who enjoys birding; I’ve been a sort-of birder since primary school and a writer since my teens. Many of these essays originated as expansions on notes to myself written in journals I’ve been keeping since 1968. (My previous journals were thrown out by my parents along with a soup box full of bubble gum cards, now worth thousands—the cards, not the journals!) Every Christmas, I’d buy myself a gift: a daybook or journal for the following year to jot down various daily observations, story ideas, trip reports of tours and outings, and reminiscences. Several years ago, I was asked to contribute a monthly blog to a series of nature apps. I ended up expanding notes from my journals into over one hundred blog entries on all nature topics. I’ve culled some of those blogs about birds and rewritten and expanded them for this book. And I’ve added more.

  As a brief answer to queries about the attractiveness of birding (I prefer that term to the old one, birdwatching, which to me is too passive and smacks of the voyeuristic), I tell people it’s like art appreciation. Birds are mobile works of art. You can marvel at their brilliant colours, the pleasing, often abstract arrangement of those colours, the strange, exotic designs, the textures and iridescence. But birds are also aerial acrobats. Watch the frenetic movements of warblers as they search for food and you can’t help but be mesmerized. Or follow a hummingbird as it hovers effortlessly above a blossom and speedily reverses away from it, and you will be captivated. Or gaze at two eagles grasping talons high in the air and free-falling in romantic playfulness, and you’ll never forget it. I should also mention bird song, so glorious and memorable that many composers have used bird melodies in their music.

  But for me, birding is not just about the birds you find, it’s also about the people you meet, the places you visit, the experiences you have—the added attractions. Birding has taken me to places as divergent as Churchill, Manitoba and the Galápagos, The Alps and Hawaii, Trinidad and Reykjavik, Texas and Kenya. I’ve traipsed along the familiar tourist routes and ventured far off those well-beaten paths. I’ve not just been to Quito, Ecuador but also the Andes and the Amazon rainforests. I was an unsuspecting gawker at the edge of a tear-gassed crowd in Rio and out in the forbidding Pantanal. I’ve walked the jammed streets of Hanoi and trekked through the cloud-high mountains of Vietnam. Birding is about the stories that you bring back to your daily life and circle of friends from places like this. And that’s what this book is about. It’s about sharing bird stories.

  The first section of the book is about birds that are not so rare but are underappreciated, or even scorned. Sparrows and chickadees, Mallards and crows are so familiar they’re taken for granted. Watching them more carefully through the eyes of my grandson after watching them casually for so many years has goaded me into reading about them and thinking about what I might write. When I was a teenager, I used to binge-read the works of authors I liked. After Walden, I read everything I could get my hands on by Henry David Thoreau, an idol I’ll never live up to. Over the years, I’ve read everyone from Ernest Thompson Seton (who wrote the original Birds of Manitoba) to Kenn Kaufman as well as the binge-worthy Bernd Heinrich and Peter Matthiessen, two other favourites. My portraits are a bit different from theirs because mine are about experiencing the birds and some other people’s responses to them, not just descriptions of their looks and behaviours.

  Section two focusses on a small fraction of the rare birds that I’ve been privileged to see in my life. I’ve seen many rare birds right here in Manitoba and Canada. I’ve also been fortunate enough to be able to travel to many countries around the world. Often on a trip to a conference or a research library, I’d tack on a few days of birding as a reward for my hard work. On family holidays, I’d reserve some time for birding. And now that I’m retired, I’ve taken some trips that are mainly dedicated to birding, or birding and culture. If I were to recount my interactions with all the rare birds I’ve seen and made notes of, this might be a book as long as Karl Ove Knausgaard’s recent tome My Struggle (3,600 pages, one million words). Be grateful that I’m more laconic than Karl.

  In the third section I recount some of the peak experiences I’ve had as a birder. Birding involves not just planned excursions but a good deal of serendipity, luck. I’ve been patient (on occasion) and fortunate enough to have had many once-in-a-lifetime, unduplicatable experiences. Chance encounters, unexpected occurrences punctuate my life with bold-faced exclamation points! Some of them have been truly astonishing, some amusing, some scary. All of them have opened my eyes to the glorious variety of nature and the wonders that the world holds.

  Finally, I devote some pages to the things that I’ve encountered that make me grumpy. Birding is not all hummingbirds and pussy willows. There are things I wish I could change. I mention a few in the fourth, but I follow up with portraits of people who counter-act the unhappiness that I sometimes feel. Most of all, birding has introduced me to lots of people who like the things I like and want to do the things I do. That is immensely satisfying. This is a book written in gratitude to them.

  Happiness is a rare thing. To paraphrase Emily Dickinson’s poem “Hope,” happiness, for me, is the thing with feathers.

  —Gene Walz

  Happiness is a Rare Bird

  Even Common Birds

  Can Be Special

  House Sparrows

  Basic, Economy-sized Birds

  Oh, it’s just another House Sparrow!”

  People say this all the time in mock or real dismay or even profanity-laden disgust. They’re usually looking for less common, “more interesting” birds like Lincoln’s Sparrows or Lapland Longspurs. House Sparrows, those small, chirpy birds with brown backs and dirty-white underparts that you often see in outdoor cafés and parks, get no respect. (They are the Rodney Dangerfields of the birdin
g world.)

  This bad reputation is not entirely undeserved. They are, after all, like pigeons and starlings, rather drab interlopers naively imported into the Americas and other places around the world. (Some birders call them “Euro-trash.”) In most of these places they now outnumber more colourful native birds. They are among the original invasive species (if you don’t count humans as invasive).

  I remember once being told by someone with the mistaken self-assurance of Cliff Clavin (the hilariously misinformed postal worker on the hit TV series Cheers) that House Sparrows were brought to New York to eat the horse manure off city streets (as inexpensive, winged street cleaners). Someone else proposed that they were introduced because some romantic soul wanted all the birds mentioned in Shakespeare’s plays to be resident in the New World (as ornithological ambassadors of the bard—bard-birds). These two charming “origin” myths have been thoroughly debunked.

  Nowadays, House Sparrows are just plain nuisances to many. Around a bird feeder they can act like obnoxious teenagers in front of a convenience store. They’re noisy, they’re messy, and they’re quarrelsome, bullying other birds away from the birdseed. The males, at times, strut around like perfect, feathered gangstas. And when they strop their bills on a branch, they look like they’re preparing for battle.